blood python

Blood Python – A Care Guide to get you started


Blood pythons are becoming more and more prevalent snakes. They are anything but difficult to keep up, and they require no extraordinary confining. Blood pythons are unquenchable feeders at all ages. Blood pythons are snakes without venom that spend much of their time in the water. They are in general livelier during night times. And are almost certainly going to be spotted at the edges of moderate moving waterways. They feed generally on rodents. Halting prey with their teeth and afterward loop around the creature, crushing it to the point of suffocation. They then widen their jaws to pull prey down the throat and gulp it down into the stomach.

Numerous animal keepers like the way the species is enormous yet not very huge. The species shows a large extent of distinction in colors; no two blood pythons are exactly similar. Blood python shows up in a range of colors from dark brown to yellow and then red color. Before maturity, blood pythons may experience a steady, yet noteworthy, color alteration. The most splendid red blood can take a few years to build up their top coloration.  Beginning as hatchlings displaying a rosy darker or brown color.


Blood pythons are found in Malaysia, Indonesia, and Thailand where they live principally in marsh swamps, yet can likewise be found in rainforest living spaces. They known to exist well in humanly populated zones and you can particularly find them in oil palm ranches where they feed on rodents pulled in to the region. You can note that the capacity to flourish in these human-adapted zones is prompting an expansion in the overall populace of the species.


Normally there are a variety of colors among this particular species. The head of your blood python can be a charcoal dark, average gray, pale brown dim or reddish color. Your blood python has the power to change the shading of their color. The eyes of your blood python could be a little pale at the pinnacle and shaded to dark at the base. The shady pattern components on the majority of their body run from rich yellow to mild-medium dark to orange-red to very deep red and occasionally, to an extremely dull gray.


In most blood pythons, the shady pattern components are some shade of red and disconnected dark edges cannot limit it. The pale pattern components on the back are normally yellowish and the pale pattern on the sides is generally a pale shady color with little dark dots. There are a few kinds of wild albino blood pythons confined. A few of those sorts have been reproduced to make more albino blood pythons. The form that has been bred for the most duration is recognized as the red albino.


Your blood python requires a wooden container as its cage. This is because woods cannot conduct heat but instead retains warmth thus a wooden container will make it less demanding to control the pivotal temperatures required inside the living space. Different fenced in areas, for example, glass containers are truly proficient at discharging heat and so you cannot keep your blood python in it. The wooden compartment ought to have great exposure to permit easy flow of air all through the fenced in area.


Your blood python requires a warm relaxation spot with almost steady air temperature. A relaxation spot of 88f is achievable by utilizing a ceramic bulb that gives out heat. These emanate warmth with no light. You should protect this bulb with a guard, managed by a decent quality indoor regulator. This temperature can stay consistent day and night so there is no compelling reason to turn off your blood python’s warming gears.

You should keep your blood python on a dry substrate so as not to amplify the moisture inside the compartment. While any free substrate can possibly be incidentally ingested, it has been discovered this to not be an issue if you use coarse beech woodchips and that is what you should keep your blood python on. It is additionally simple to clean.


When your blood python is still relatively small, you ought to nourish it week by week on melted mice. As your blood python develops, you need to improve on the size of rations it takes until the point that the snake is taking either additional huge mice or little rodents. You can feed your matured blood pythons once at regular intervals as they don’t wind up overweight. You should use a water bowl sufficiently expansive for the snake to get into as long as it doesn’t increase the moisture in area excessively.


Blood pythons unquestionably aren’t the biggest of snakes that you may begin to raise; their size isn’t something to joke around about, however, Blood pythons are an overwhelming snake and their size is very vast. Taking a glance at a blood python, you will see that their tail is short and their head is both wide and extensive.


When fully developed, the male ordinarily measures in the region of 40 to 56 inches long while females measure at about 50 to 66 inches long. Extremely old females could even reach 72 inches in length and they generally weigh about 5 to 9 Kg. The important thing here is this is a large snake, and, in like manner, will require a big enough fenced area to live in.


Your blood python is naturally without venom and we usually keep them as pets. They are delicate and don’t ordinarily bite their keepers if they are not pushed to do so. They can, in any case, bite surprisingly on the off chance that they are anxious or starving. Your hungry blood python may lash out to get rat prey and unintentionally bite your hand while you are still holding the prey. They may likewise be increasingly bad-tempered and progressively inclined to bite when they have a basic sickness and are not feeling very good.

The primary thing you ought to do if your blood python chomp you is to treat yourself or the individual your snake has bitten. Though your python isn’t venomous, still completely clean the injury with hot water and antibacterial cleanser. Wash out busted parts of the skin with plenteous measures of water for a few minutes and apply force to hemorrhage injuries to help with faster healing. Make sure to call your specialist promptly to get counsel about clear healing treatment. Still bites from snakes without venom can end up contaminated with different microscopic organisms, so tending to them promptly is essential.


Here are some great dependable guidelines to pursue to make sure your snake doesn’t bite you:

  • Make sure your blood python is very well nourished
  • Never offer it sustenance straight from your hand, rather serve it on a plate.
  • Move toward it steadily when stroking it
  • Touch it tenderly
  • Avoid dealing with it when it is in the process of shedding

When have been treated your injuries, ensure that your snake is changed and controlled securely and safely inside its fenced in area and that it no chance looks sick or harmed. If you think it is at all hungry, feed it slaughtered prey by either abandoning it in the tank for it to expend or offering it to your snake with an extended plate.

In the event that your snake is shedding, help the shedding procedure by giving your snake water in which it can drench in day by day. On the off chance that the pet is acting lazy, stowing away too much, declining to eat or demonstrates skin shading changes, make certain to have it looked at by your specialist as quickly as time permits with the goal that any basic ailment might be analyzed and treated.


The ball python is also a decent snake for a starting snake proprietor. Developing to a most extreme size of 3 to 5 feet, ball pythons are not as huge as the other python snakes that are kept as pets. They are very meek, and are anything but difficult to deal with. They naturally have a Lifespan of around 20 to 30 years.

Ball Python

Blood pythons when fully developed, the male ordinarily measures in the region of 40 to 56 inches long while females measure at about 50 to 66 inches long. Extremely old females could even reach 72 inches in length and they generally weigh about 5 to 9 Kg and live for about 25 years.

They are called ball pythons for the reason that when in danger, they fold themselves into a firm ball, pushing their head inside their curls. Smaller ball pythons develop almost a foot a year until they become adults.

Ball pythons are not very lively snakes, so a smaller fenced in area is okay; utilize a 10 to 15-gallon tank for the smaller snakes and a 25-gallon tank for a matured blood python.


Blood python requires a wooden compartment as their walled in area. The wooden compartment should have great ventilation to permit wind current all through the fenced in area.

Your ball python’s enclosure ought to be somewhere in the range of 75 and 80 F through the day, with a relaxation spot of around 85 F. Evening temperatures can be reduced to around 70 F up to a level of 75 F.

You have to keep your blood python; from smaller ones to developed grown-ups in wooden frameworks. The cage for the smaller snakes should be about 10 inches in length, 5 inches thick and 3 inches tall. You have to make air available by drilling gaps in the edges of each pen. 


We don’t know the life span of a blood python living in the wild, however, scientists assumed it to be around 20 years. If in confinement, it is considerably over 25 years even though the highest known lifespan is 28 years.


 It is imaginable to breed blood pythons and the necessities to do so are fundamentally the same as other python snakes. A settling box will be vital, and you should keep the eggs in a warm humid condition at 84 degrees F for about 60 days. One major thing that you ought to take note of is that you will probably not have the capacity to breed your female blood python on the off chance that trapped from the wild.


You should take note that wild-trapped females have low reproducing rates, and they are probably will never be able to lay eggs when they are kept in cages or pens. Male blood pythons trapped from the wild will breed with normality without any complications. In the event that you need to raise blood pythons, you should raise females from hatchlings for good sustainable outcomes.


Your blood python is likely to suffer from respiratory contaminations and pneumonia are bound to happen if the snake is too hassled. Your ball python can end up hassled for various distinctive reasons, as not having enough clean water, an excessive amount of taking care of, no container to stow away in, a pen, parasites can cause this.

The most widely recognized reason for respiratory diseases in blood pythons is keeping their condition excessively cold or at an inappropriate temperature. Most respiratory diseases are obvious when the python starts to breathe with difficulty. Increasingly serious signs that your blood python is experiencing a respiratory disease can incorporate the snake sitting and putting its head above, making noisy murmur and commotions while breathing and overflowing bodily fluid from its mouth. 


Your matured blood python will be a huge weighty snake and very exciting to deal with. Your blood python generally won’t bite except in some extreme cases. They are compliant and delicate and very easy to keep as a pet because of its undemanding nature. Your blood python can be a completely awesome friend, perfect in every way for you.

Please feel free to leave a comment below and take some time to read about the Hognose Snake.

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